Hey there, fellow pig farmers and homesteaders! Let’s cut to the chase—if you’ve been raising pigs for more than a year, you know that downtime (aka off-season) isn’t just for you to catch up on paperwork or binge that show you’ve been putting off. It’s also make-or-break for your pig watering system. Mess up storage, and come spring? You’re dealing with clogged lines, corroded nipples, or even a system that’s so gunked up you’ve got to replace half of it before the first pig shows up. As someone who’s been in the pig watering system game for years—talking to hundreds of farmers who’ve blown off storage and paid for it big time—I’m here to break this down like we’re chatting over a post-fence beer. No fancy jargon, no confusing steps, just what actually works. Pig Watering System
First off, let’s be real: not all off-seasons are the same. If you’re in a place like Iowa or Ontario, winter is your off-season—temperatures drop fast, pigs are either fully finished or sold, and you’re shutting things down for months. If you’re in Florida or parts of Texas, your off-season might be summer’s brutal heat wave, when pigs are resting and you’re avoiding system repairs in the swelter. But no matter when your downtime hits, the core steps are identical—they’re just tweaked for weather.
Let’s start with the big one: draining every single drop of water. This is non-negotiable. I can’t tell you how many times a farmer has said, “Oh, I tilted the pipe a little, most water got out!” and then come back in March to burst pipes that turned their shed into a ice block. Even a tiny puddle left in a line or a nipple will freeze, expand, and crack the plastic or rust the metal. How do you do this right? First, turn off the main water valve—duh, that’s step one for everything. Then, for the main lines: if you’ve got gravity-fed lines, open every low point drain. If you’re on pressure lines, blow them out with a air compressor (keep it at 30 PSI max—higher will damage the seals, I’ve seen that too many times) until no more water comes sputtering out. For the individual pig nipples? Twist them off gently (don’t force them—strip threads are a nightmare come spring) and blow air through each one to clear the tiny water passage. Pro tip: if you have a freeze kit installed, run it for 10 minutes after draining to make sure no leftover moisture is hiding in the fittings.
Next up, clean everything. I know, I know—cleaning is the last thing you want to do after a long season of mucking out pens. But let’s be honest: pig water has got all sorts of gunk in it—feed particles, manure residue, algae, even that weird slime that builds up in lines over months. If you leave that in there, it’s gonna turn into crud that’s impossible to scrub later, and when you turn the system back on, you’re feeding that stuff to pigs, which can lead to stomach issues. What’s the best cleaner? For plastic parts (lines, nipples made of food-grade plastic), use a mild, non-toxic bleach solution—1/4 cup of bleach per 5 gallons of water. Don’t use harsh chemicals like ammonia or drain cleaners—they’ll leave residues that are bad for pigs. For metal parts (stainless steel lines, metal valve bodies), use a vinegar and water mix—equal parts—to cut through rust spots without corroding the metal. How to clean the lines: after draining, flush them with your cleaner solution, let it sit for an hour, then drain completely again and blow out any leftover moisture. For the nipples: soak them in the cleaner for 30 minutes, then use a soft brush (an old toothbrush works great) to scrub the tiny openings—make sure you get all the gunk out, because a clogged nipple is a dead nipple.
Now, drying time. You can’t just wipe down parts and stack them in a corner—moisture left on metal will cause rust, and moisture on plastic will make it mold or get brittle over the off-season. Here’s what I do: after cleaning, set all the parts (lines, nipples, valves, fittings) in a well-ventilated area. If it’s warm and dry outside, leave them in the shade for a day or two. If it’s cold and snowy, use a fan (not a heater—high heat can warp plastic) to circulate air around them. I’ve had farmers try to rush this step by putting parts in a oven (like a home oven on low heat) and that’s a huge mistake—plastic melts, metal gets warped, and you end up with useless parts. Wait until every last part is completely dry—no dampness, no condensation. Test this by running your hand over a line: if it feels cool or has any moisture, it’s not dry enough.
Storing them correctly is next—this is where a lot of people mess up. You wouldn’t store your work boots in a puddle, right? Same logic applies here. First, separate parts by type: lines in one pile, nipples in another, valves and fittings in a third. Don’t just toss everything into a box—small parts will get lost, and hard plastic lines will get kinked if they’re stacked under heavy stuff. For PVC lines: coil them loosely (no tight bends—tight coils will crack PVC over time) and tie them with a soft rope or zip tie (avoid metal ties, they can scratch the plastic). Store them in a cool, dry place—like a shed, attic, or even a garage shelf. Don’t store them outside, even in a covered area—UV rays from the sun will make plastic lines get brittle, and rain will get in and cause mold. For metal lines: wrap them in a old blanket or cloth to prevent scratches, then hang them up or stack them on a shelf where they won’t get dented. For nipples: put them in a labeled plastic container with a lid so they don’t get lost. I keep a bin just for spare nipples, and I label it “pig water nipples” so my helper doesn’t throw it away (yes, that’s a real mistake someone made to me last year). For valves: keep them in a separate container, and make sure all the ports are capped so dust and bugs don’t get in.
Wait, what if you’re leaving pigs on-site during a mild off-season? Not everyone sells all their pigs in the winter—some finish pigs, some keep breeders. If you’ve got breeding pigs or finisher pigs over off-season, you don’t want to shut down the whole system. But you still need to protect it from freezing temperatures. How? Use a freeze-resistant system—install heat tape on exposed lines, or use a thermostatically controlled valve that only turns on when the temperature drops below freezing. Also, you can insulate lines with foam insulation sleeves—they’re cheap, easy to put on, and they work way better than wrapping them in old towels. Just make sure any insulation doesn’t cover the drain valves, so you can still drain the lines quickly if there’s a really cold snap.
Another pro tip: take inventory before storing everything. I can’t tell you how many times a farmer has pulled out their system come spring and realized they’re missing 10 nipples or a whole line section. Write down what you have—count the nipples, check the length of the lines, make sure you have all the fittings. Order any spare parts (extra nipples, gaskets) before the off-season ends, because come spring, everyone is calling suppliers and parts are backordered. Speaking of spare parts: always keep a few extra nipples and gaskets on hand—they’re cheap, and when a nipple breaks at 5 a.m. on a Saturday, you’ll be glad you have a spare instead of waiting for delivery.
Oh, and one big mistake I see: modifying the system and then not noting it. If you added an extra line for new pigs, or moved a valve around during the season, take a photo of the setup before you take it apart. That way, when you put it back together, you don’t have to guess which line connects to which valve. I once had a farmer call me panicking because he put the system back and no water was flowing—turns out he connected the main line to the secondary valve instead of the main one. A quick photo would’ve saved him 3 hours of troubleshooting.
Wait, what about if you’re storing the system for a whole year? Like, if you’re taking a break from raising pigs for a season and re-starting later. Then you need to go the extra mile. For metal parts: after drying, coat them in a light layer of food-grade oil (like mineral oil) to prevent rust. For plastic parts: wrap them in a plastic sheet to keep dust and moisture out. And make sure you check on them every 2-3 months—if there’s any condensation, wipe it down and re-dry them. I’ve had a customer who stored his system for 18 months, and when he pulled it out, the lines had mold growing inside because he didn’t check them.
Let me wrap this up with a quick checklist, because I know you’re busy: 1. Turn off main water valve. 2. Drain every line, nipple, and fitting completely. 3. Clean with non-toxic cleaner. 4. Dry all parts 100%. 5. Store in cool, dry place—no stacking heavy stuff on lines, no storing outside. 6. Take inventory and photos. 7. Grab spare parts before off-season ends.
Look, I get it—storing your pig watering system isn’t the most exciting task on your off-season to-do list. But skipping these steps will cost you more time, money, and headaches when you’re already swamped getting pigs ready for the new season. I’ve seen farmers who skimp on storage end up replacing their whole system every 2 years, while ones who do it right get 5+ years out of their system. That’s a no-brainer, right?
If you’re not sure about a part of your system, or you need help picking spare parts, feel free to reach out. We work with all kinds of pig farmers, from small homesteads to large commercial operations, and we know exactly what works in different climates. Don’t wait until spring when every farmer is calling in a panic—hit us up now, and we’ll make sure your system is ready to go when your pigs are.
Cattle Corral Panels References:
- National Pork Board. (2021). “Off-Season Equipment Storage for Swine Operations.” Pork Industry Best Management Practices.
- University of Extension Agriculture. (2022). “Freeze Protection and Storage of Swine Watering Systems for Cold Climates.”
- Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). (2020). “Hygiene and Maintenance of Livestock Water Supply Systems During Downtime.”
- American Association of Swine Veterinarians (AASV). (2019). “Nutrient and Health Impacts of Poor Water Quality Resulting From Improper System Storage.”
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