If you’ve ever stepped into a sauna that feels more like a warm, welcoming hug than a stuffy, scratchy space, chances are it’s built with the right wood. As a sauna room supplier who’s spent the last 12 years helping hotels, wellness spas, and residential homeowners build spaces that last, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten calls from people asking, “What wood is actually best for a sauna?” It’s not a trivial question—this is the material you’ll be sitting in for 20-45 minutes at a time, often in 160-195°F heat with 10-20% humidity, so it needs to do more than just look pretty. It has to withstand extreme temperatures, resist moisture, stay gentle on skin, and even not off-gas weird smells when it’s hot. Let’s break this down like I do when I’m walking a client through their options—no confusing jargon, just real-world, field-tested facts. Sauna Room
First, let’s talk about what makes a sauna wood “good” in the first place. I’ve seen people grab any old hardwood or pine from a home store and regret it within a year, because it warps, splinters, or starts to smell like mildew. The non-negotiables, in my book, are low density (high-density woods hold heat, which makes surfaces too hot to touch), high resin content (resin repels moisture and prevents rot), minimal shrinkage/swelling when it gets hot (no warped benches or gaping seams), and low toxicity—no harsh chemicals or strong fumes that get released when heated. That last one is especially important for people with allergies or sensitive skin, which is something I always emphasize when building saunas for wellness-focused clients.
Now, the heavy hitter that’s been the gold standard in saunas for decades: Western Red Cedar. I’m not just saying this because we sell a lot of it—trust me, I’ve tested every other option out there, and cedar checks almost every box. Let’s get specific about why it works. Western Red Cedar is a softwood, which means it’s low density—so when it’s heated, it doesn’t get scalding hot to touch. I’ve had a client tell me their kids climb on the sauna benches barefoot in the winter, and they never complain about burning. That’s a big one, especially for residential saunas where families use them. It also has natural oils and resin that make it incredibly resistant to rot, mildew, and insect damage. I installed a cedar sauna at a lake resort in northern Michigan 8 years ago, and it still looks like new—no splinters, no discoloration, even with the humidity from the nearby lake and frequent use.
Another huge benefit of Western Red Cedar is its scent. When it’s heated, it releases that warm, earthy, woodsy aroma that’s iconic to saunas. It’s not overwhelming at all—just a subtle, calming scent that makes the whole experience feel more luxurious. I’ve had spa clients tell me their guests specifically mention that cedar smell as their favorite part of their sauna stay. The only small downside? It’s a bit softer than, say, oak, so if you’re building a sauna that gets super heavy use (like a gym with 20+ users a day), you might want to pair cedar with a slightly harder wood for the floor. But for 90% of the saunas we build—residential, boutique spas, small hotels—it’s perfect.
Next up: Eastern White Cedar. This is a close cousin to Western Red Cedar, but it’s a bit cheaper, which is why we often recommend it for clients on a tighter budget. It has similar properties—low density, natural rot resistance, that nice wood scent. The main difference is that Eastern White Cedar is a bit paler in color, and it doesn’t hold up quite as well to extreme, constant heat. If you live in a climate where the sauna gets used year-round (not just winter), or if you’re building an indoor sauna that’s on 10+ hours a day, Western Red Cedar is the better long-term investment. But for outdoor saunas that only get used a few months a year, or small residential saunas that see occasional use, Eastern White Cedar is a solid, cost-effective choice. I had a customer in Wisconsin put an Eastern White Cedar sauna on his back patio 5 years ago, and he’s never had a problem with it—just makes sure to wipe it down after use, which is simple enough.
Now, let’s talk about the wood that’s often mistaken for a sauna favorite: Pine. There are a few types of pine that get marketed as sauna wood, like white pine or sugar pine. I get why people love it—it’s cheap, easy to work with, and light. But it has a major downside: high resin content in certain types, but not the kind that’s good for saunas. When pine gets hot, it releases sticky resin that can get all over your towels, skin, and even the sauna heater. I once had a client who tried pine for a small home sauna, and within a month, their bench was covered in sticky, hard-to-remove resin, and their favorite cotton towels were ruined. It’s also more prone to splintering over time, and while it resists rot a little, it’s not nearly as durable as cedar. The only time we recommend pine is for people who are building a temporary, infrequently used sauna (like for a cabin that only gets used once a year) and don’t care about longevity. For anything permanent, skip the pine.
What about hardwoods, like Oak or Mahogany? I get the appeal—they look sturdy, they’re pretty. But hardwoods are high density, which means they hold heat like crazy. I’ve touched a sauna bench made of oak in a public spa, and it was so hot I had to use a towel to sit on it, even though the air temp was only 180°F. That’s the last thing you want in a sauna—you should be able to sit directly on the bench, not worry about burning yourself. Mahogany is even worse, because it has stronger oils that can get smelly when heated, and it’s more expensive, to boot. Unless you’re looking for a decorative accent (like a small trim piece on the sauna door), hardwoods are not practical for sauna walls or benches.
Wait, there’s one more wood that’s gaining popularity right now: Aspen. I recently installed an aspen sauna at a wellness retreat in Colorado, and I was surprised by how well it works. Aspen is a soft hardwood, so it’s low density, doesn’t get hot, and it has very little resin—no sticky mess like pine. It’s also paler than cedar, which gives the sauna a brighter, more modern look, which is why a lot of contemporary spas go for it. The downside is that it doesn’t have the same natural rot resistance as cedar, so it needs to be sealed every 2-3 years, whereas cedar only needs a light sanding and oiling every 5-7 years. It also doesn’t have that iconic wood scent, so if you’re after that classic sauna aroma, aspen isn’t for you. But if you want a sleek, modern sauna without high maintenance, aspen is a great pick.
Now, let’s get into the practical stuff—what to actually ask for when you’re ordering sauna wood. Not all cedar is the same, you know. Make sure it’s heartwood cedar, not sapwood. Sapwood is the outer layer of the tree, and it’s pale, prone to rot, and doesn’t have the same resin content. Heartwood is the inner, darker part of the tree, which has all the natural protective properties you need. Also, avoid pressure-treated wood—ever. Pressure-treated wood has harsh chemicals that leach out when heated, which is not something you want sitting in a small, enclosed space with you for 45 minutes. We only use kiln-dried, sustainably sourced wood in all our saunas—kiln drying is important because it removes excess moisture, so the wood doesn’t shrink or warp as it acclimates to your space. I always tell clients to order extra wood for small repairs down the line, too—cedar and other good sauna woods age beautifully, turning a soft silver-gray over time, so you won’t have to match a weird, new-looking piece later.
I’ve made a lot of mistakes over the years in this business—like that time I recommended pine for a busy gym sauna, and they called me a month later complaining about sticky benches. But that’s how I learned what works, and what doesn’t. When a client asks me what’s best, I don’t just push the most expensive wood. I ask them how often they’ll use the sauna, where it’s located (indoor vs outdoor), what their budget is, and even what kind of vibe they want—cozy, classic, or modern. For example, a small residential sauna for a family with young kids? Western Red Cedar, every time. A budget outdoor sauna for a weekend cabin? Eastern White Cedar. A sleek, modern spa sauna? Aspen. And I always add, “Skip the pine.”
At the end of the day, a sauna is more than just a health tool—it’s a space to unwind after a long day, to sit with a book or a friend, to slow down. The wood you choose sets the tone for that whole experience. It shouldn’t be something you have to repair every year, or something that feels scratchy and uncomfortable. It should be the quiet backdrop that makes your sauna feel like yours. If you’re planning to build or upgrade a sauna, and you want to talk through what wood is right for your space, I’m here to help. Reach out to discuss your project—we work with clients all over, from small residential builds to large commercial wellness spaces, and we’ll make sure your sauna is built to last.
Dehumidification & Temperature Control System References:
- “Sauna Wood Selection: A Guide to Choosing the Right Material for Your Sauna,” International Sauna Association, 2021.
- Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material, U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service, 2010.
- “Moisture Resistance and Durability of Softwoods for Sauna Construction,” Journal of Building Materials and Construction, Vol. 18, No. 3, 2019, pp. 412-427.
- “Indoor Air Quality Considerations for Sauna Materials,” Wellness Engineering Journal, Vol. 7, No. 2, 2022, pp. 89-95.
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